Nepal – Bhaktapur

Bhaktapur is one of the most interesting places we visit around the Kathmandu Valley. Some time ago it was its own city, but nowadays, Kathmandu has expanded so much that Bhaktapur is another area of the capital.

If you plan to go, prepare to spend the huge amount—for Nepali standards—of 1500 rupees, or do like us and try to sneak in every single street surrounding the square… =P It is not easy, though, as every possible corner is guarded by regular people who don’t seem to work officially for the touristic council and ask you to show your ticket (one man even appears riding a motorbike when we are almost successful in the infiltration!). For this reason, we end up walking pretty far, but this also allows us to soak in the local culture.

As with Patan and Kathmandu, there is a royal or “Durbar” square here, but we find this is the most lively and beautiful of all of them. With our travel guru Belinda (check her amazing blog) we will enjoy a full day here walking its many streets with its many hidden squares and temples, finding religious ceremonies going on near some of them. There are a lot of goats, hens and animals wandering around and many beautiful ceramics and wood carvings being created around every corner. Here are our findings in pictures. Enjoy!

Inside a small temple.

Inside a small temple.

Entrance to a small temple.

Entrance to a small temple.

Street of Bhaktapur.

Street of Bhaktapur.

Another small temple approaching Durbar from the south.

Another small temple approaching Durbar from the south.

Durbar Square.

Durbar Square.

A temple in Durbar Square.

A temple in Durbar Square.

Detail of the strut, including the common erotic representations.

Detail of the strut, including the common erotic representations.

Another view of Durbar Square.

Another view of Durbar Square.

People usually sit in temple structures.

People usually sit in temple structures.

Walking the streets we discovered a ceremony going on, inducing the head of a goat as an offering.

Walking the streets we discovered a ceremony going on, inducing the head of a goat as an offering.

A square where people puts grain to dry with the sun.

A square where people puts grain to dry with the sun.

Detail of a balcony.

Detail of a balcony.

A dog sits over the grain let to dry. He is kicked out a few minutes later.

A dog sits over the grain let to dry. He is kicked out a few minutes later.

Next to a pond, clothes let to dry.

Next to a pond, clothes let to dry.

Sitting calmly enjoying the village view.

Sitting calmly enjoying the village view.

Next, a woman separates the grain.

Next, a woman separates the grain.

People cleaning clothes in the pond.

People cleaning clothes in the pond.

Clothes let to dry over shrine statues.

Clothes let to dry over shrine statues.

A small square walking the streets.

A small square walking the streets.

Taking a nap.

Taking a nap.

Detail of the wall of another square, with all kind of stuff.

Detail of the wall of another square, with all kind of stuff.

The pottery square.

The pottery square.

More pottery.

More pottery.

And yet more pottery, love the light.

And yet more pottery, love the light.

A man crafting pottery the traditional way:

Goats and animals  are everywhere.

Goats and animals are everywhere.

A cyber cafe in Bhaktapur, with all the style and glory.

A cyber cafe in Bhaktapur, with all the style and glory.

Squares appear suddenly everywhere, with more pagodas.

Squares appear suddenly everywhere, with more pagodas.

A woman helped our friend Belinda to put the typical red mark on her front.

A woman helped our friend Belinda to put the typical red mark on her front.

Different view of the pagoda.

Different view of the pagoda.

View of the square from above the pagoda.

View of the square from above the pagoda.

And an additional square with, of course, another temple.

And an additional square with, of course, another temple.

People and animals sitting around, letting the time go by.

People and animals sitting around, letting the time go by.

A young goat likes Belinda and plays with her.

A young goat likes Belinda and plays with her.

A man selling meat the Nepali way.

A man selling meat the Nepali way.

Practical info

  • You can take a local bus from Ratna Park in Kathmandu for 25 NPR. Once at the station, ask around and you will be pointed to the correct vehicle. To go back, take another bus from the same stop where you were dropped off (in front of the main entrance), but beware the last one to KMD departs at 5 pm (or ask to the driver on the way there to confirm). The route lasts one hour approximately.
  • If you want to avoid an expensive bill for your lunch, there is a local and small establishment on the square itself where they make tasty samosas for 15 NPR a piece. Ask “Samosa?” and they will point you in the right direction.
  • If you are interested in buying a hand-crafted mask or other piece made of wood or ceramics, Bhaktapur is the place!

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